Kent - A Country of Castles and Gardens

In cricket, games between Kent and Sussex are nicknamed ‘The War of the Wealds’. But much more unites these two fierce sporting rivals than divides them. Kent and Sussex share much: the chalky hills and valleys of the North and South Downs, the towering cliffs of the English Channel, and a long and storied history. This is the first in a pair of blogs that will explore the coasts and countrysides, the wild heathland and manicured gardens, of our two most south-easterly ceremonial counties – starting with the ancient county of Kent.

Ancient Kent

Kent is an ancient land. On his second heavily armed trip to Britain in 54 BC, Julius Caesar (or his scribe) wrote that: ‘The most civilized of all these nations are they who inhabit Kent, which is entirely a maritime district, nor do they differ much from the Gallic customs.’ Kent is still very civilised today; the cobbled streets of its only city, Canterbury, are home to lovely shops, a decent university, and a cathedral that celebrates the return of Christianity to England in the 6th century. Canterbury Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with exceptional stained glass windows. In the 12th century Archbishop Thomas Becket was martyred there by four knights, possibly on the orders of Henry II. These events made Canterbury a hotspot for pilgrimages.

Pilgrims Progress

These pilgrims had to make their way through the North Downs. Although today they are one of the most picturesque parts of England, inland it was once a wild place. Caesar wrote that: ‘Most of the inland inhabitants do not sow corn, but live on milk and flesh, and are clad with skins.’ Things had improved considerably by the time of the murder of Archbishop Beckett, and the Pilgrims’ Way made the hills easily traversable. To finish their journey to Canterbury, pilgrims would have had to leave the track at the village of Chilham. This small but perfectly formed settlement on the banks of the charmingly named Great Stour is still home to more than a dozen Tudor and Stuart buildings, with their distinctive lattices of wattle and daub, and the White Horse pub, which has quenched the thirst of many a wanderer since the days of Henry VIII. If you fancy something spooky then just across the water is Julieberrie’s Grave, a 6,000-year-old barrow traditionally thought to be the resting place of either a giant or an army and its horses. Archaeologists have found that whoever or whatever was buried there is now long gone...

The Garden of England

Caesar also noted that the weather in Kent was ‘more temperate than in Gaul, the colds being less severe.’ Kent is certainly one of the warmest parts of England, and so it has become particularly well known for its English wines, which have a fresh, bright flavour. We’re not joking – Chapel Down’s Rosé was named one of the best in the world at the 2024 Decanter World Wine awards. About 20 miles north of Chapel Down’s vineyard are the famous gardens of Leeds Castle, near Maidstone. The castle is much more a country house than a fort, and it has the grounds to match. As well as three amazing gardens that capture the spirit of East Asian, Mediterranean and bucolic English climates, there is also a new wildflower meadow, to help support native plant species and provide a habitat for local wildlife. Combining history, elegance, and a passion for nature, the castle grounds are the perfect embodiment of the garden of England.

Coast and Castles

Leeds is not the only castle in Kent with a fantastic garden. The castle at Walmer has hedges that have warped over time to take the shape of clouds, a glasshouse café where visitors can enjoy the garden’s produce, and a restored 18th century quarry garden charmingly named ‘The Glen’. Walmer Castle was originally built by Henry VIII as part of a series of forts that would protect England against the French, and it is only a few miles north of the famous port of Dover with possibly England's mightiest Castle defending the coast from 800 BC until the middle of the 20th Century, Here, the towering White Cliffs of Dover look out over the English Channel. Though some of the most famous cliffs in England, this chalky landscape can be followed for many miles out west to Sussex, but before you head there have a look at our favourite way of exploring Kent - on two wheels!